What Kafana means
- In Serbian: Кафана
- Pronounced: ka-FA-na
- Category: Food & drink
A kafana is the Serbian equivalent of a tavern or old-school bistro: a cosy, usually informal place built around food, drink and long conversation rather than fast service. The classic kafana serves home-style Serbian cooking — grilled meats, salads, bean stew, cheese and bread — washed down with rakija, domestic beer or wine. Many are decorated with old photographs and memorabilia, and the best-known ones have been trading for a century or more.
What makes a kafana more than just a restaurant is its role as a social institution. Historically it was where people met to talk politics, do business, mourn and celebrate, and that spirit survives. Evenings often bring live music — frequently traditional starogradska ("old town") songs or a small band moving between tables — and meals are meant to be unhurried.
For a visitor, a kafana is the most authentic way to eat and drink in Belgrade. Expect generous portions, table service, and a bill that is usually very reasonable by Western European standards. The densest cluster of historic kafanas is along Skadarlija, the city's old bohemian street.
Common questions about Kafana
What is the difference between a kafana and a restaurant?
A restaurant is judged mainly on its food; a kafana is judged on the whole experience — homely Serbian cooking, rakija and wine, an unhurried pace and often live traditional music. Kafanas are usually more informal and more social, and many double as a neighbourhood meeting place rather than just somewhere to eat.
What should I order in a Belgrade kafana?
Start with a rakija (fruit brandy) and a plate of cheese, kajmak and bread, then move to grilled meats such as ćevapi or a mixed grill, or a slow-cooked dish like sarma or pasulj (bean stew). It's normal to share several plates across the table.
